Chuanshan Park

This guide to Chuanshan Park in Guilin opens with an unfinished couplet scholars scratched onto Cockfighting Hill on their way to the imperial exams, a line of classical Chinese poetry that sat unanswered for years. It follows the cave cut through the hill's middle to the round, glowing opening known as Moon Cave, and the matching cave across the Li River that together are called the two moons of the river. Listen for the Ming-dynasty pagoda still watching over it all from above.