Tao Tao Ju Chang Di Dian

This guide to Tao Tao Ju in Guangzhou traces the teahouse back to 1880, through its 1927 relaunch under new owners who asked the reformer and calligrapher Kang Youwei to brush its new sign himself. You'll hear what his chosen name was meant to mean, and how it shaped the ritual of yum cha that still plays out here, trolley after trolley of small plates stretching a morning into an afternoon. It points you toward the har gow, the chicken feet and the roast goose carved at the counter, and asks you to listen for the wheels on tile and the lids lifting on bamboo steamers.