Café Hawelka

This guide to Cafe Hawelka in Vienna follows Leopold and Josefine Hawelka, who took over the shabby corner cafe in 1939 only to have the war shut it before they had really opened, and who returned in 1945 to cook Buchteln on a wood stove with no gas in the city. It traces how that nightly ritual pulled in Vienna's writers, especially after a rival literary cafe closed in 1961, and later artists like Andy Warhol. Come by around nine, when the last Buchteln come out of the oven.