Parque Lezama

This guide to Parque Lezama in Buenos Aires uncovers what stood on this ridge before the garden, a colonial company's kilns and a warehouse used to traffic enslaved people in the late 1700s. It follows the ground through a merchant's orchard, an exiled strongman's mansion, and two epidemic quarantines, before landowner José Gregorio de Lezama bought the property and shaped it into the park you're standing in. Listen for how the hill's many names each tried to erase the one before it.