Feria de Recoleta

This guide to Feria de Recoleta in Buenos Aires traces the market from its start in the early 1970s, when a loose group of artisans spread blankets of leather, silverwork and mate gourds on the grass behind a nursing home, through its recognition as an official craft fair by 1974. It follows what happened to those vendors after the 1976 military takeover, when the market became a target and the fair scattered to the steps of the Del Pilar church and then a street beside the cemetery. Grab a choripan from the grill smoke while you walk the stalls.