Café de los Angelitos

This guide to Café de los Angelitos in Buenos Aires follows the payada singers who traded improvised verses here in the 1890s, when the corner bar was a dirt-floored haunt named Bar Rivadavia. It traces how a police commissioner's joke about the rough crowd gave the place its name, and how two young singers, Carlos Gardel and José Razzano, built their act at this same table decades later. Best heard standing at the corner, where the old wager still plays out.